August 16, 2010

Identity for your Cat

Filed under: General,behavior,office — catdocto @ 8:58 am

Identification for Indoor and Outdoor Cats

Several recent studies published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (JAVMA) have highlighted the difficulty of reuniting lost pets with their owners. For cats, the situation is especially dire, with fewer than two percent of cats entering shelters being reunited with their owners. This is a terrible statistic, because in shelters without the resources to be “no-kill” many of these otherwise healthy and loved cats will be euthanized if they are not adopted quickly. Another study also showed that 40% of cats who ended up in shelters (and were later found by their owners) were completely indoor cats before they became lost.

These studies show that identifying your cats with your contact information is extremely important. Many people think that their cats do not need to wear identification because they stay indoors, or because they stay inside the yard and never seem to be missing. This is simply not true, since an indoor cat can be let out by a workman in your home, a guest, or children who forget to shut the door. Cats that go outside can be startled by a loud noise or chased by another animal and can leave your yard and forget how to return.

Collars are a good start at identification because they provide easily seen evidence that a cat has an owner and is not a stray. This may prevent well-meaning neighbors from picking up an outdoor cat and taking him to a shelter simply because he appears unowned. On the collar, you can place a nametag with your address and phone number, and some tags read “I am an indoor cat” or “If you have found me, I am lost” so that the finder knows the cat should be returned home. Your cat should also wear his rabies tag on his collar. This is a useful backup item of identfication because each tag has a number and the veterinarian’s office phone number. Cats can be looked up by their tag number if the finder calls the office, even if they don’t have a nametag.

Many people believe that their cat won’t tolerate wearing a collar, but another recent study in JAVMA showed that over a 6 month period, owners were able to get 73% of the cats in the study who had never previously worn a collar to successfully wear one. This shows that with a little persistence, most cats can wear collars.

Cats should always wear a safety collar that has been designed specifically for felines. These can be made of a stretchy material, can have an area that is easily breakable, or have a buckle that is designed to open if pulled sharply. Although these features can make it easier for your cat to escape a collar, they are essential if the collar gets caught on another object or the cat gets his foot caught in the collar. We have several types of safety collars available in our office. Collars should be properly fitted–not too tight, not too loose–and you can test this by being able to fit two fingers between the collar and the cat.

Collars and tags can also increase a cat’s safety inside the house. The tags will jingle, which makes it easier to hear the cat moving. This can prevent tripping accidents with kittens, who don’t know not to walk up behind you, or cats which have a habit of twining around your ankles. Hearing the cat can also help to prevent accidents for elderly owners, owners with vision problems, and owners with poor balance.

Cat owners should also consider a second, more permanent method of identification, the microchip. A microchip is a small electronic transponder encased in glass and is the size of a large grain of rice. It is injected under the skin between the shoulderblades. Microchips are very safe and many cats who are adopted from shelters will already have one that was implanted at the shelter. Once your cat has his own unique number, encoded in the microchip, he can be registered with the company that made the microchip. If your cat is found and brought to a shelter or veterinarian, a scanner will read the number and the staff can call the company and find out how to contact you. The most important thing to remember is that this will only work if you keep your contact information up to date with the registry. Every time you move or change your phone number, you must remember to update your information. It is heartbreaking to find a microchip in a stray cat, only to call a disconnected phone number!

All cats should have one of these forms of identification, and preferably both. Please call us if you have any questions!

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April 29, 2010

General Dietary Recommendations For Felines

Filed under: General,nutrition — catdocto @ 3:19 pm

GENERAL DIETARY RECOMMENDATIONS

There are many commercially available foods formulated to meet a cat’s nutritional needs including both dry and canned diets. Before choosing a diet for your cat we believe it will be helpful to know a few things about your cat and the diets available.

First and foremost your cat is a carnivore. It requires a meat based diet since protein is the basic food for your carnivore. Several attempts to formulate “vegetarian-type” diets have resulted in serious nutritional disorders in cats. Let’s first look at what cats eat in the wild. Their diet consists mostly of small rodents, insects and the occasional bird. Although cats living in the southern states will catch and eat crayfish, in general cats are not fish hunters. The average mouse is about 65% protein, 25% fat and 8% carbohydrate. Insects are slightly higher in protein, lower in fat. Both are about 70% moisture.

So now let’s look at commercial diets. Pet food manufacturers are required to list the percentages of protein, fat, fiber and moisture content in each food. Although protein is listed on the label, it is important to note that it is actually nitrogen levels not protein which is being measured. Nitrogen is present in many foods including meats and cereals. So not all “protein” sources in pet food are necessarily meat. Grains such as corn, soy, wheat, rice, rice flour and their respective glutens will all contribute to increasing the “protein” analysis, but may not be utilized by your cat as protein. More on the implications of this later.

Manufacturers are also required to list the ingredients in their food. Ingredients are listed in decreasing percentage order in the diet. So if a diet lists chicken as the first ingredient, chicken is present in the greatest amount. The next most prevalent ingredient would be listed second and so on. But all ingredients are not created equal. When a meat such as chicken or fish is listed, it is referring to the muscle meat of that animal. By-products usually refer to the internal organs. Although we may not wish to eat lungs for instance, these organs contain high amounts of meat protein. By-product listings which are preceded by a specific animal (ie. chicken by products) are much preferred over meat-by-products which may contain diseased parts. Meal refers to the leftover parts which are generally cooked and dried to produce meal. Meat meal is a protein source, but it is a more processed and less nutritious form of protein.

As earlier stated, grains/cereals often contain nitrogen. Because cats are obligate carnivores they lack many enzymes to effectively process cereals as a protein source. In the case of our mouse example, many cats do not eat the grain ladened “guts” of their prey; those that do probably benefit from the mouse’s own digestive enzymes which they eat as well. In addition, cereals are presently thought to contribute to many cats’ dietary intolerances and allergies. So rather than contributing to the protein nutrients of the cat, grains mostly contribute to the carbohydrate level.

Many pet foods contain vegetables and fruits such as carrots, zucchini, blueberries, and cranberries. These are generally present in small amount and are usually listed near the end of the ingredient list. In general these vegetables and fruits are not thought to be a dietary requirement of cats although they often contribute to the fiber and antioxidant properties of the food. The exact fiber requirement of cats is not known, although the mouse/insect diet contains about 6% fiber. Not infrequently cats eating a commercial diet may require more fiber than is currently available in their diets. It is best to consult your veterinarian before adding supplements.

The moisture content of your cat’s diet is very important as cats originally came from desert-like environments. This means that their bodies possess an amazing capacity to conserve fluid producing a very concentrated urine in the process. Therefore cats are generally not big water drinkers. However their natural diet is about 70% moisture. Dry food is generally 10% moisture; canned food about 78% moisture. Cats eating all dry food will not drink enough to maintain good hydration. They will only drink enough to avoid becoming dehydrated. This is very important as urinary tract disease and kidney disease both very common in domestic cats improve when hydration is improved.

In general we recommend a diet which is mostly canned food with dry food being used for supplemental calories and treats. The following are some brands you may wish to try. Avoderm Breeder’s Choice, Artemis, Back to Basics, Best Feline Friend, By Nature, California Natural, Holistic Select, Evo, Evolve, Felidae, Go-Grain Free, Halo Spot’s Stew, Innova, Merrick, Natural Balance, Nature’s Logic, Nature’s Variety, Pet Guard, Pinnacle, Tiki Cat, Wellness, Wellness Core, Weruva, and Ziwi. In addition, there are several select flavors of Fancy Feast, Sheba, Wysong, and Whole Foods 365 which are acceptable as well.

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April 6, 2010

Online Drugs

Filed under: General,medical,office — catdocto @ 3:31 pm

Online Drugstore Warnings!

Before you spend money for drugs or products online, you should be aware of some of the pitfalls of ordering drugs over the internet.

Here is a link to a wonderful article that everyone should read before ordering: http://www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/ResourcesforYou/AnimalHealthLiteracy/ucm203000.htm

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March 9, 2010

Permethrin Is Toxic to Cats

Filed under: General — catdocto @ 10:21 am

Permethrin/Pyrethrin Toxicity in Cats

The return of warm spring weather is welcome after the cold of winter. Unfortunately, people and animals are not the only ones who feel revived and invigorated by the changing seasons. Soon, insects like fleas, ticks and mosquitoes will be out to pester us again!

It is important to protect outdoor animals against insect pests, and in some cases it is a good idea to protect indoor cats against heartworm disease, or against fleas if you have a dog that goes outside. Please don’t hesitate to contact the office if you would like a suggestion about an appropriate product for your cat.

The point of this blog entry, however, is not what product you should be using, but what you should avoid. A recent editorial and article in the Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery highlighted the dangers of using inappropriate flea control products on cats.

For many years, the most effective and widely available products against fleas contained chemicals called pyrethrins, which are derived from chrysanthemums, and their synthetic relatives, called permethrins. Many over-the-counter flea control products still contain these chemicals. Although they can be relatively safe and effective when used properly, some cats are extra-sensitive to these chemicals and can get sick even when they are given a “normal” dose. More cats are in danger if they are exposed to high concentrations of these chemicals. This most frequently happens when an owner purchases a dog product and puts it on a cat, even if only a small portion of the dose is applies. This can happen accidentally, when an owner doesn’t realize they have bought a dog flea product, or can happen when an owner is trying to save money by splitting a dog dose between several cats.

Symptoms of permethrin toxicity include drooling, vomiting or diarrhea, and tremors. Tremors can progress to full-blown seizures and this is the symptom that can rapidly become fatal if not promptly treated.

It is also worrisome that cat poisoning can even occur when an owner puts a dog product on the family dog and the cat snuggles up to or grooms the dog.

The best way to avoid toxicity is to purchase cat flea and tick preventatives directly from the veterinarian so that you know you are getting the correct, permethrin-free product. If you must purchase a product in the petstore or grocery store, we strongly recommend buying Frontline, which does not contain permethrins. It is more expensive than other over-the-counter products, but the lower risk of toxicity is well worth the money. Read labels carefully to make sure you are not buying a dog product by mistake. Finally, if you put a flea control product on your dog, keep the dog and cats separated for about 24 hours to make sure the cat is not exposed to medication on the dog.

If you realize that you have applied the incorrect product to your cat, immediate bathing in lukewarm water and dishwashing hand liquid will remove most of the product and will minimize the amount of drug absorbed through the skin. If your cat has licked the product off of itself or another animal, bathing will not be of benefit and your should call your veterinarian immediately.

Remember, it’s not worth saving a few bucks on a cheaper flea product at the risk of your cat’s life or an expensive emergency visit! Please call the office if you would like a recommendation for a safe, effective parasite preventative. Also, please remember that so-called “natural” flea repellents may sound attractive, but are not effective and can contain ingredients like citrus oils that are also poisonous to cats.

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February 11, 2010

Euthanasia…………When is it the right time?

Filed under: General,behavior,medical,office — catdocto @ 2:15 pm

Since our feline friends all have a shorter lifespans than us, sooner or later you will need to make decisions for your cat that we all find difficult. Our cats spend their lives enriching ours so we should be prepared to make decisions that relieve any pain or suffering that may occur at the end of life. But when is it the “right time” to make that decision? THERE ARE NO SIMPLE ANSWERS!

Let’s start by explaining how we go about performing this procedure in what we believe is the most humane way we can. Once we have all arrived at the decision that it is time to end one of our friend’s suffering, we first administer a combination of drugs that are sedatives, painkillers, and an anesthetic. This is done via an intramuscular injection. Depending on how sick a patient may be, it can take anywhere from 1-7 minutes for your cat to fall “asleep”, or be anesthetized by the drugs and not feel any pain or be aware of the rest of the procedures. We then shave a small area on either a front or back leg and administer an intravenous injection of an overdose of pentobarbital and an anti seizure drug. This will cause the heart to stop beating and end any brain function almost instantly. Your cat will not know or feel any of this final step. At that time you will need to decide what to do with your kitty’s remains. Many of our clients have them cremated and the ashes returned. You can take the remains home and bury your kitty in your yard if you prefer.

So now, when is it the proper time to make this decision? Cats with severe injuries are a little easier to make make the decision. If there is no hope of a functional life following an injury then the decision should be made immediately. However with chronic disease such as kidney failure, cancer, or just old age, it is difficult to pinpoint the exact proper time.

I would like to offer some of the things that we consider when we are making recommendations to cat owners. First, are the basics of being a cat still in place? That is, is your cat eating enough to sustain life? Is there chronic nausea or vomiting, or is there chronic diarrhea that we cannot control with medication? Is your cat drinking to maintain hydration? Being dehydrated is unpleasant or even painful in all species, so this must be easily controlled or it is time. Is your cat using the litter box? If we have made the litter area “handicapped accessible”, and your cat still cannot make it to the box, then it is time.

Finally, and I think most important, is your cat enjoying its life still? That is, if your cat always greeted you when you came home, is it still doing that? Is it still coming to you at dinner time and asking for food? Does it play with its toys? Does it enjoy sitting in your lap and being petted and /or groomed? If it does not interact with you on its own, or if it is hiding all the time, not coming out for food, does not enjoy being touched or petted, or could care less if you are present or not, then it is time.

Often, cat owners will make an appointment to end their kitties’ life and just before, the kitty seems to rally some. This always make the decision tougher, but if there are more “bad” days than “good” days, then I usually suggest we call it quits because there will probably be many more “bad” days to come.

The decision is always a painful one for all cat owners, but remember that we are more concerned about your cat’s pain than yours. We will always make our recommendations based on your cat’s quality of life and the expectations for improvement or not. Remember that each patient has a unique situation of disease and personal strength, so we try to treat each patient with care and compassion. What would we want if this was me? Would I want to continue to live like this? These are the things that we consider and ask you to consider.

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January 19, 2010

Temple to the Cat Goddess

Filed under: General,office — catdocto @ 2:21 pm

Egypt announces find of ancient cat goddess temple

By HAMZA HENDAWI, Associated Press Writer – Tue Jan 19, 10:01 am ET

CAIRO – Archaeologists have unearthed a 2,000-year-old temple that may have been dedicated to the ancient Egyptian cat goddess, Bastet, the Supreme Council of Antiquities said Tuesday.

The ruins of the Ptolemaic-era temple were discovered by Egyptian archaeologists in the heart of the Mediterranean port city of Alexandria, founded by Alexander the Great in the 4th century B.C.

The city was the seat of the Greek-speaking Ptolemaic Dynasty, which ruled over Egypt for 300 years until the suicide of Queen Cleopatra.

The statement said the temple was thought to belong to Queen Berenice, wife of King Ptolemy III who ruled Egypt in the 3rd centuryB.C.

Mohammed Abdel-Maqsood, the Egyptian archaeologist who led the excavation team, said the discovery may be the first trace of the long-sought location of Alexandria‘s royal quarter.

The large number of statues depicting Bastet found in the ruins, he said, suggested that this may be the first Ptolemaic-era temple dedicated to the cat goddess to be discovered in Alexandria.

This would indicate that the worship of the ancient Egyptian cat-goddess continued during the later, Greek-influenced, Ptolemaic period, he said.

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December 30, 2009

Geriatric Cat Guidelines

Filed under: General,medical,office — catdocto @ 11:42 am

Geriatric Cat Guidelines.

The American Association of Feline Practitioners have recently released a new set of guidelines for care of the geriatric cat. Over the next few weeks, we will follow their lead with several blogs about your older cat.

The most common disease of the older cat is Chronic Kidney Disease. This disease is multifactorial in it’s causes, but it essentially is a progressive decreased ability of the kidney to get rid of waste products from the blood stream. Signs of this disease are non-specific but include:

Mild changes in behavior

Change in drinking frequency or location

Excessive thirst

Larger Volumes of urine

Small, dry bowel movements

Decreased appetite

Decrease in muscle mass

Nausea

Poor hair coat

The earlier it is diagnosed, the more likely we can slow down the progression of this disease. Simple blood and urine tests aid in diagnosing this disease, and should be considered in all older cats. Some cats that have kidney disease also suffer from hypertension. Any older cat with any of the above signs should be examined and a determination made if testing is warranted.

Older cats should visit their veterinarian at least every 6 months. In the life of a senior cat, six months is about the same as two years for a human. Certainly long enough for significant health changes to occur.

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December 2, 2009

H1N1 Update

Filed under: General,medical,office — catdocto @ 1:00 pm

H1N1 update: Chinese dogs, Va. turkeys and Calif. cheetah

The USDA has confirmed 2009 H1N1 influenza virus in a turkey breeder flock in Virginia. This is the first detection of the virus H1N1 in U.S. turkeys. Canada and Chile have already had cases in domestic turkeys. A worker at the Virginia farm had been sent home with flu-like symptoms, and has been identified as the possible source of infection.

Also on the USDA’s updated list is a cheetah in California that has tested presumptive positive for 2009 H1N1. We are currently communicating with the Association of Zoos and Aquariums (AZA) and the American Association of Zoo Veterinarians (AAZV) to obtain more information and develop resources for veterinarians and the public.

On November 28, Xinhua (Chinese press) reported that two (2) dogs in Beijing tested positive for the 2009 H1N1 virus. We have not been able to confirm this report. We have contacted sources in China, requesting additional information about the history, signalment, clinical signs, diagnosis, treatment and outcome of these cases, but have not yet received the information.

At this time, the messages to clients remain largely the same:

This is not cause for panic, but underscores the importance of taking pets to a veterinarian if they are showing signs of illness. This is especially important if someone in the household has recently been ill with flu-like symptoms.
Ferret and cat owners should remain vigilant.
There is no evidence to suggest that pets have or will spread the virus to humans or other animals. To date, all of the sick pets became ill after a person in the household was ill with flu-like symptoms.
There have not been any confirmed cases of U.S. dogs infected with the virus, but because of the Chinese reports we know it may be possible for dogs to become infected.
Proper hygiene and sanitation measures should be followed to limit the spread of the influenza virus.
Turkey and pork are still safe to eat. Nonetheless, proper food hygiene and preparation are very important when it comes to protecting your family from any foodborne illness.
It is safe to visit zoos.

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November 5, 2009

H1N1 in Cats

Filed under: General,medical,office — catdocto @ 8:47 am

2009 H1N1 influenza virus confirmed in Iowa cat

November 4, 2009 – A 13-year old cat in Iowa developed signs of a respiratory infection after several people in the household were ill. Preliminary testing was positive for 2009 H1N1 on October 29, and the results were confirmed on November 2. This is the first report of a cat infected with H1N1. The cat has recovered from its illness.

To date, this is the first cat confirmed infected with the 2009 H1N1 virus. Two ferrets, one in Oregon and one in Nebraska, have also recently been confirmed infected with the 2009 H1N1 virus. The Nebraska ferret died, but the Oregon ferret has recovered. To date, there is no evidence that the ferrets or the cat passed the virus to people.

The American Veterinary Medical Association and American Association of Feline Practitioners are reminding pet owners that many viruses can pass between people and animals, so this was not an altogether unexpected event. We are advising pet owners to monitor their pets’ health very closely, no matter what type of animal, and visit a veterinarian if there are any signs of illness.

For more information, view the AVMA’s press release on the Iowa case or visit the AVMA’s H1N1 resources Web page.

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September 22, 2009

SIMPLE STEPS TO MAINTAIN A HEALTHY FELINE

Filed under: General,medical,nutrition,office — catdocto @ 2:09 pm

These are 6 simple things you should do to keep your cat healthy:

Feed canned food at meal times. Cats are carnivores not grain eaters. All cats should have at least 2 meals per day of a meat based, moist cat food. Establishing a routine mealtime is important so you can observe your cat asking for food and actually consuming it. Changes in these behaviors warrants closer observation.
Provide a safe, clean, quiet, large litterbox. Litterboxes should be 2 times the length of the cat in size. Most pet-store varieties are too small, so we suggest going to the building supply store and getting the large Rubbermaid storage containers. We like the 37 gal container. Leave the cover at the store. Cut an opening in the side wide enough for your cat to go through, stopping 4-6 inches from the bottom. Put 1-2 inches of a non-perfumed clumping litter in the box. Keep it in a quiet but easily accessible spot. The rule of thumb is one more litterbox than the number of cats in the household, all in different locations in the house.
Weigh monthly. Longterm, this is one of the most important things to do. When cats are young adults you will be able to make dietary decisions on a monthly basis and make small adjustments in the diet to keep them at their optimum weight. Weight loss is the cardinal symptom of almost all diseases of cats and often goes unnoticed by owners.
Play daily. Both cats and their caretakers do not take the time to play daily. Cats ARE social animals and do need daily interactions to stay social. Playing with your cat should be enjoyable for both you and your cat, and allows you to make sure they are acting properly on a daily basis. Most cats will play for short periods of time, so this should be a daily routine. Observing your cat’s movements and interests are another way to verify that it is feeling well.
Hunt for pellets. Cats are hunters, and tripping over the food dish is not very challenging. The small amounts of dry pellet foods that are fed daily should always be presented in a way that is hard or different to obtain. Simply spreading the pellets around the house and having the cat look for the food is good. A few pellets in the dish with 3 golf balls will make a cat work to obtain each pellet. Putting pellets in things like cardboard boxes, paper towel tubes, brown paper bags, etc will stimulate the cat’s problem solving.
Control fur. Cats constantly groom and their rough tongue pulls out massive amounts of fur. Controlling the ingestion of fur is important, so quick, daily grooming with a comb or “the Furminator” is vital. Routine use of furball remedies to “prevent” furball build-up is important rather than wait for the vomiting to begin. Furballs can cause vomiting, gastritis, enteritis, or even obstruction. Cats with short hair can have just as many problems as long-haired cats.

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