catdoctors.com

August 16, 2010

Identity for your Cat

Filed under: General,behavior,office — catdocto @ 8:58 am

Identification for Indoor and Outdoor Cats

Several recent studies published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (JAVMA) have highlighted the difficulty of reuniting lost pets with their owners.  For cats, the situation is especially dire, with fewer than two percent of cats entering shelters being reunited with their owners.  This is a terrible statistic, because in shelters without the resources to be “no-kill” many of these otherwise healthy and loved cats will be euthanized if they are not adopted quickly.  Another study also showed that 40% of cats who ended up in shelters (and were later found by their owners) were completely indoor cats before they became lost.

These studies show that identifying your cats with your contact information is extremely important.  Many people think that their cats do not need to wear identification because they stay indoors, or because they stay inside the yard and never seem to be missing.  This is simply not true, since an indoor cat can be let out by a workman in your home, a guest, or children who forget to shut the door.  Cats that go outside can be startled by a loud noise or chased by another animal and can leave your yard and forget how to return.

Collars are a good start at identification because they provide easily seen evidence that a cat has an owner and is not a stray.  This may prevent well-meaning neighbors from picking up an outdoor cat and taking him to a shelter simply because he appears unowned.  On the collar, you can place a nametag with your address and phone number, and some tags read “I am an indoor cat” or “If you have found me, I am lost” so that the finder knows the cat should be returned home.  Your cat should also wear his rabies tag on his collar.  This is a useful backup item of identfication because each tag has a number and the veterinarian’s office phone number.  Cats can be looked up by their tag number if the finder calls the office, even if they don’t have a nametag.

Many people believe that their cat won’t tolerate wearing a collar, but another recent study in JAVMA showed that over a 6 month period, owners were able to get 73% of the cats in the study who had never previously worn a collar to successfully wear one.  This shows that with a little persistence, most cats can wear collars.

Cats should always wear a safety collar that has been designed specifically for felines.  These can be made of a stretchy material, can have an area that is easily breakable, or have a buckle that is designed to open if pulled sharply.  Although these features can make it easier for your cat to escape a collar, they are essential if the collar gets caught on another object or the cat gets his foot caught in the collar.  We have several types of safety collars available in our office.  Collars should be properly fitted–not too tight, not too loose–and you can test this by being able to fit two fingers between the collar and the cat.

Collars and tags can also increase a cat’s safety inside the house.  The tags will jingle, which makes it easier to hear the cat moving.  This can prevent tripping accidents with kittens, who don’t know not to walk up behind you, or cats which have a habit of twining around your ankles.  Hearing the cat can also help to prevent accidents for elderly owners, owners with vision problems, and owners with poor balance.

Cat owners should also consider a second, more permanent method of identification, the microchip.  A microchip is a small electronic transponder encased in glass and is the size of a large grain of rice.  It is injected under the skin between the shoulderblades.  Microchips are very safe and many cats who are adopted from shelters will already have one that was implanted at the shelter.  Once your cat has his own unique number, encoded in the microchip, he can be registered with the company that made the microchip.  If your cat is found and brought to a shelter or veterinarian, a scanner will read the number and the staff can call the company and find out how to contact you.  The most important thing to remember is that this will only work if you keep your contact information up to date with the registry.  Every time you move or change your phone number, you must remember to update your information.  It is heartbreaking to find a microchip in a stray cat, only to call a disconnected phone number!

All cats should have one of these forms of identification, and preferably both.  Please call us if you have any questions!


February 11, 2010

Euthanasia…………When is it the right time?

Filed under: General,behavior,medical,office — catdocto @ 2:15 pm

Since our feline friends all have a shorter lifespans than us, sooner or later you will need to make decisions for your cat that we all find difficult.  Our cats spend their lives enriching ours so we should be prepared to make decisions that relieve any pain or suffering that may occur at the end of life.  But when is it the “right time” to make that decision?  THERE ARE NO SIMPLE  ANSWERS!

Let’s start by explaining how we go about performing this procedure in what we believe is the most humane way we can.  Once we have all arrived at the decision that it is time to end one of our friend’s suffering, we first administer a combination of drugs that are sedatives, painkillers, and an anesthetic.  This is done via an intramuscular injection.  Depending on how sick a patient may be, it can take anywhere from 1-7 minutes for your cat to fall “asleep”, or be anesthetized by the drugs and not feel any pain or be aware of the rest of the procedures.  We then shave a small area on either a front or back leg and administer an intravenous injection of an overdose of pentobarbital and an anti seizure drug.  This will cause the heart to stop beating and end any brain function almost instantly.  Your cat will not know or feel any of this final step.  At that time you will need to decide what to do with your kitty’s remains.  Many of our clients have them cremated and the ashes returned.  You can take the remains home and bury your kitty in your yard if you prefer.

So now, when is it the proper time to make this decision?  Cats with severe injuries are a little easier to make make the decision.  If there is no hope of a functional life following an injury then the decision should be made immediately.  However with chronic disease such as kidney failure, cancer, or just old age, it is difficult to pinpoint the exact proper time.

I would like to offer some of the things that we consider when we are making recommendations to cat owners.  First, are the basics of being a cat still in place?  That is, is your cat eating enough to sustain life?  Is there chronic nausea or vomiting, or is there chronic diarrhea that we cannot control with medication?  Is your cat drinking to maintain hydration?  Being dehydrated is unpleasant or even painful in all species, so this must be easily controlled or it is time.  Is your cat using the litter box?  If we have made the litter area “handicapped accessible”, and your cat still cannot make it to the box, then it is time.

Finally, and I think most important, is your cat enjoying its life still?  That is, if your cat always greeted you when you came home, is it still doing that?  Is it still coming to you at dinner time and asking for food?  Does it play with its toys?  Does it enjoy sitting in your lap and being petted and /or groomed?  If it does not interact with you on its own, or if it is hiding all the time, not coming out for food, does not enjoy being touched or petted, or could care less if you are present or not, then it is time.

Often, cat owners will make an appointment to end their kitties’ life and just before, the kitty seems to rally some.  This always make the decision tougher, but if there are more “bad” days than “good” days, then I usually suggest we call it quits because there will probably be many more “bad” days to come.

The decision is always a painful one for all cat owners, but remember that we are more concerned about your cat’s pain than yours.  We will always make our recommendations based on your cat’s quality of life and the expectations for improvement or not.  Remember that each patient has a unique situation of disease and personal strength, so we try to treat each patient with care and compassion.  What would we want if this was me?  Would I want to continue to live like this?  These are the things that we consider and ask you to consider.

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